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Your Guide to Microdermabrasion Treatments

 The exfoliation of dead skin cells to reveal a brighter, smoother skin has been practiced for centuries throughout the world. We’ve watched our mothers and big sisters practically scratch their faces with abrasive fruit kernel scrubs and loofahs, and slather oatmeal, sugar, salt crystals even sand over their face and body in pursuit of glowing skin.

Most recently of the many skin rejuvenation treatments a woman or man can receive, Microdermabrasion has stood out as a leader in safely and painlessly obtaining refreshed looking skin, softened fine lines and scars, brighter and smoother skin texture and the promotion of new cell growth.

While Microdermabrasion is not the end all for skin rejuvenation it’s an excellent exfoliation process with little to no downtime, redness or irritation. Let’s take a look at some of the questions and facts about Microdermabrasion. What is Microdermabrasion?

The Process:

Exported from Europe to the US in the 90’s, Microdermabrasion is a 30-60 minute procedure performed by licensed and trained estheticians, nurse estheticians, dermatologists and plastic surgeons in day spas, salons, physicians’ office, medical spa or to a lesser degree at home. The dead outermost skin cells (Stratum Corneum) are partially or completely removed by a machine that disperses medical grade crystals (aluminum oxide crystals) through a hand-held device over the skin, then quickly vacuums them up along with the dead skin cells, debris and excess oil through the stainless steel or glass wand. A newer procedure of skin resurfacing is the DiamondTome Wands. This type of skin resurfacing operates without crystals. The process uses a diamond tipped wand with varying degrees of roughness, to exfoliate the skin as the certified professional moves the wand over the area with steady even pressure. As in the crystal machine, the dead cells, dirt and debris are vacuumed up into a container and then disposed of. 

What can it do for you: 

Microdermabrasion is used to remove sun-damaged skin, lighten or totally remove acne scars, smooth some stretch marks, reduce blackheads and whiteheads, brighten dull skin, help to even out hyperpigmentation, soften fine lines and wrinkles, increase collagen production and remove or lessen scars and dark spots on the skin including age and liver spots. It can smooth skin with Keratosis Pilaris by allowing topical products to penetrate and work more effectively. It can be safely used on the face, neck, chest, back, hands, arms and legs.What it can’t do: Microdermabrasion will not remove a tattoo. You should ask your dermatologist if it could be used on your acne prone skin. It cannot be used on skin cancers, or precancerous actinic keratoses or skin growths. Because of it’s aggressive exfoliating action, it is not recommended just after a chemical peel, (glycolic acid, salicylic acid, Jessner peel).

Can anyone have Microdermabrasion? 

Microdermabrasion can be used by any man, woman and teen, from the age of fourteenurteen up, and on all skin types and skin tones with a few exceptions. Those with Rosacea, sensitive skin, and broken capillaries should not have the procedure. Let the esthetician know during the consultation phase regarding certain health conditions you might have that might prevent you from having the procedure.

Machines and their differences

There are at least a hundred different machines on the market for professional use, and all for the most part, do the same thing only to a stronger or lesser degree. Larry Weekley, the esthetician instructor at Academy of Cosmetology Arts notes,  “It’s the amount of pressure of the machine’s vacuum instrument or wand that defines a pharmaceutical (med spa) treatment as to a spa treatment.” “If the wand isn’t using a vacuum system, then the treatment is just an exfoliation.”The strength of the machine’s suction mechanism, on your skin and as in the newer DiamondTome wand machines, the degree of roughness on the diamond tip wand will qualify the results you’ll receive. A more aggressive procedure is usually performed under a physician’s guidance and monitoring of your skin condition. The less powerful machines are sold to salons and spas for use by the esthetician. The same goes for the products you are sent home with to use as daily maintenance. The stronger, more beneficial pharmaceutical strength products can only be purchased through a doctor’s office or spa with a doctor on staff, while the lesser strength cosmeceutical products are sold through the salons and spas. The prices will be a little more or less depending on what you purchase. The lesser expensive and lighter strength products will work, but over more time.  

Selecting the technician:

A licensed esthetician performing the treatment must go through a fourteen-hour training in the use of the machines. More aggressive treatments are performed in the doctor’s office and only operated by trained licensed estheticians, nurses, and dermatologists. All should be trained on the particular equipment they are using.

How much will the treatment Cost

Costs usually run around $95- $200 per treatment. And that will also depend on whether other treatments are done in conjunction to the microdermabrasion. But look for a package deal when you shop around. The competition for your patronage will benefit you in finding specials such as twenty percent off or one free session. Six sessions usually cost about $600 and up. Some spas will send you home with free products or samples. Many spas offer a free consultation and evaluation using the Visia Digital Complexion Analysis. The diagnostic tool uses multi-spectral imaging to reveal damage on and beneath the surface of the skin that is not detectable by visual examination alone.

How many treatments?

Excellent results can be obtained in 6-16 treatments that are at first once a week or every other week, and then maintenance of once a month as designed by your esthetician.

Can Microdermabrasion be used in conjunction with other treatments?

Yes, the estheticians and instructors I spoke with all say that depending on your skin and your expected results, your microdermabrasion treatment will work better with added treatments like Intense Pulse Light (IPL) therapy, chemical peels, and laser skin resurfacing. Maintenance at home can include home microdermabrasion kits; age spot and pigment lighteners, Retinol products and prescribed daily skin care regimens.

What will it feel like? 

People and their sensitivities differ, however it feels anywhere from a cat licking your face, to having sandpaper massaged on your skin. Your skin might be pink or a little red afterwards, and feel like it’s been wind burned, but that will diminish quickly into healthy looking skin. Some call the treatment, the lunchtime peel.

Maintenance:

“Sunscreen!” Says Marilyn Graham, esthetician instructor at the Pickens Technical College. “Especially in the days after your treatment, and everyday no matter what the weather… use sunscreen”. Also at Pickens Tech, esthetician instructor Pat Hail is all about sending the client home with the proper cleansers, toners and moisturizers for their particular skin type. After testing the Diamondtomb microdermabrasion machine on my sun- damaged arms, I was sent home with all sorts of goodies to use as maintenance.

Home kits and products vs. professional:

With the popularity of microdermabrasion, of course the cosmetic companies have jumped on the bandwagon and created many at home products. If a professional treatment is too costly at this time, these at home creams and kits might do the trick. They will take more time to show satisfactory results, however in the long run (depending on the brand) they will be effective. The home products come either in a microcrystal cream form that is applied with the fingers costing around $12 - $35, or with it’s own battery operated wand that pushes the crystal creams into the skin. I’ve only experienced wands that help to circulate the crystallized creams into the skin, delivering an excellent exfoliation at a great price. I’ve yet to find an at home system with a wand that vacuums the crystals and skin cells up as the professional procedure. However, I’m sure they are or will be out there, only in lesser strengths.

 

Happy Polishing!

 

By Davida Simon of The Makeup Room

 

ReaReady Set, POLISH!

reprinted from Davida's article in Denver Woman Magazine